Milan Fashion Week brims with September runway spectacle

By

Dominique Muret

Translated by
Roberta HERRERA

Published
Aug 22, 2023

For the September Women's Fashion Week dedicated to the Spring-Summer 2024 collections, Milan has unveiled a remarkable lineup of 60 physical shows, surpassing the 54 featured in the previous February edition. According to the recently published provisional schedule, a total of 10 new names will join the fashion week, encompassing newcomers and triumphant returns. The program is punctuated with numerous highlights, including shows by Tom Ford, Gucci, and Bally, each showcasing their new creative directors. Moschino's anniversary runway show is also a highly anticipated show.

All eyes will undoubtedly be on Tom Ford, who has chosen Milan to inaugurate the new chapter of the American brand on Thursday, September 21. Following the brand's acquisition by Estée Lauder and the departure of its eponymous founder, the reins of creative direction have been handed to Tom Ford's right-hand man, Peter Hawkings. Simultaneously, the Ermenegildo Zegna Group has taken on the mantle of overseeing the entire ready-to-wear sector through licensing.

Another highly anticipated event is the very first show by Sabato De Sarno for Gucci on Friday, February 24, which will set the tone for the revival of the struggling Kering flagship brand. The new creative director is poised to unveil Gucci's new aesthetics after eight years of flamboyance under Alessandro Michele's leadership.

Joining these two must-see events is Moschino's anniversary runway show on Thursday, September 21. Post the departure of Jeremy Scott in March, the Italian fashion house has innovatively collaborated with four of the industry's most influential stylists—Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Katie Grand, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, and Lucia Liu—to craft a unique collection celebrating Moschino's 40th anniversary.

The excitement continues with other notable showcases, such as Bally's reveal on Saturday, September 23, introducing its new creative director after Rhuigi Villaseñor's departure in May. Simone Bellotto, a former Gucci designer and a current member of the luxury footwear brand, is set to succeed him. The same day marks the eagerly awaited debut show of The Attico. Launched in 2016 by Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini, the Italian-Swedish luxury ready-to-wear brand stands as a beacon of contemporary style. Noteworthy is its 49% ownership by Remo Ruffini, chairman of Moncler, via the Archive company.
 

Among the novelties, Nigerian stylist Papa Oyeyemi will debut his Milan show on Sunday, September 24. Founder of the androgynous label Maxivive in 2007, Oyeyemi's creations are known for their artistic richness in materials, cuts, intricate detailing, and exquisite finishes, subtly reflecting African influences. Equally unmissable is the Milanese runway debut of the Italian-Swedish brand Avavav, established in 2017 by Linda and Adam Friberg. Renowned for integrating Florentine craftsmanship with a responsible ethos, the brand's creative direction is now led by Swedish designer Beate Karlsson.

Moreover, five brands are making a comeback in September, reentering the fashion week show calendar. Versace, having showcased in the United States in March, returns, along with German label Boss, which also chose Miami for its last show. Also returning is the historic house of Luisa Beccaria, opting for a presentation in February and a Florence-based show in June during Pitti Uomo. Furthermore, Munich-based leather goods brand Aigner has reclaimed its spot, as has done Chiara Boni La Petite Robe, a veteran of New York Fashion Week.

The remaining days of Milan Fashion Week will present its traditional program, alternating between big names like Fendi, Roberto Cavalli, Etro, and Diesel, with shows open to the public on Wednesday, Max Mara and Prada on Thursday, Dolce & Gabbana, Ferragamo, Missoni, and Bottega Veneta on Saturday, and Giorgio Armani on Sunday. Alongside these industry stalwarts are emerging designers and smaller houses. Notably, Walter Chiapponi will present his latest collection at Tod's. In addition to the 60 physical shows, four shows will be presented in digital format (Guido Vera, Maison Mencioni, Phan Dang Hoang, and Laura Biagiotti). Several parallel events are also expected to enrich the schedule leading up to September 19.

The provisional schedule reveals that four names are absent compared to the previous February winter session. Annakiki, the brand of Chinese designer Anna Yang, who has been showcasing in Milan since February 2017, Japanese designer Atsushi Nakashima, who joined Milan Fashion Week in February 2016 with alternating shows and presentations, the experimental label Vitelli by Mauro Simionato, present in the calendar for several seasons, and finally, Japanese designer Tomo Koizumi, who succeeded Dolce & Gabbana last season. In September, Karoline Vitto, a new talent supported by the brand, is taking over. The young Brazilian designer based in London, known for her empowering designs that celebrate the female form, is set to showcase on Sunday, September 24.