Jul 5, 2023
Stéphane Rolland’s Maria Callas character couture
Jul 5, 2023
A rather triumphant moment for Stéphane Rolland in an opera diva chic collection and show inspired by Maria Callas, filmed amid high drama and melodrama by Claude Lelouch inside the Palais Garnier.
The absolutely ideal setting for a homage to Callas, whose centenary is this year. A poignant moment with her greatest performances echoing off the marble stairs and baroque architecture of the entrance to France’s greatest opera house.
The Greco-American soprano hitting the highest notes of O Mio Babbino Caro as the cast appeared in all white looks, led by a long sheath embellished with a fan sculpture in gold, while Tosca merited a duchesse satin toga dress that was a great spectacle.
All 31 looks inspired by roles that Callas interpreted, ending with Norma, in a blood red silk gown, the model’s head seemingly encrusted in an immense series of golden acanthus leaves.
The atmosphere was giddy with anticipation with the veteran filmmaker’s teams hidden in nooks and crannies filming the action.
“I was obsessed with the fantasy of Maria Callas climbing up the Palais Garnier stairway once again,” explained Rolland pre-show, pointing at the elaborate interior design. Echoed in multiple looks with bas-reliefs and elements of stucco molding embroidered onto jackets and boleros.
Callas’ characters all acting out their own personal tragedies as they emoted past the marble columns. Each mannequin made up with Callas’ signature Egyptian eye makeup and elaborate chignon.
Ranging from a Wagnerian heroine in a diamond studded helmet to the tragic Medea in a rhubarb red crepe hooded dress that caused a ripple of appreciation in the audience. Climaxed by two stupendous couture bubble skirts – one looking like it was made huge shavings of crepe.
The soundtrack interspersed with interviews where the always outspoken singer holds forth. A dozen lothario ushers in all-black tails and tuxedo pants taking it in turns to guide models down the white marble.
According to Variety, Lelouch’s next film will be Finalement, a love story about a trumpeter and a powerful lawyer. Ironically, the next film of the Oscar winning director of A Man and A Woman has nothing to do with Callas, but this show – Rolland’s best ever - guarantees his movie will open with a huge wallop.
At the finale the entire cast gathered on the elaborate marble stairwell for a standing ovation and prolonged cheering. A bona fide fashion moment, and what should make for a brilliant opening scene to Lelouch’s next movie. Couture and Callas alive and well in Paris and cinema.
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