Kim Jones quest for simplicity in Fendi haute couture
At first glance, attempting to create a haute couture collection based on minimalism and simplicity might seem like an ambitious and contradictory endeavor. However, in the hands of British designer Kim Jones, the challenge appears as an easily achievable feat. Having established his own identity as the creative director of Dior's menswear collections in just five years, Jones, who took over as the successor of Karl Lagerfeld in 2020, consistently reaffirms his unique vision of elevated luxury by revitalizing the classic codes of Fendi's Roman heritage collection after collection.
Once again, at the Palais Brongniart, the historic stock exchange building in the 2nd arrondissement of Paris, Kim Jones gathered his loyal guests, including the iconic Donatella Versace. However, the commotion of fans and onlookers surrounding the Place de la Bourse, tightly controlled by heightened security measures, was likely due to the presence of international music stars attending the fashion show, including Cardi B, Camila Cabello, and Colombian singer Shakira, whose arrival caused a flurry of camera flashes.
The front row also featured a select group of actresses known for their elegance at gala events and red carpets, such as Lily James and Suki Waterhouse from the UK, Naomi Watts who now calls Australia home, Zoe Saldana from the US, and Mexican actress Eiza González. The front row also included Sidney Toledano, president of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture and CEO of LVMH Fashion Group.
Set against an immaculate marble backdrop and accompanied by a solemn soundtrack featuring baroque composer Henry Purcell, the Italian house presented a sophisticated interpretation of femininity, navigating between clean and rigorous lines while emanating an understated fragrance of luxury through the use of graceful and effortless fabrics that draped elegantly on the models' bodies. It was a delicate and formal runway show where Kim Jones achieved simplicity in couture looks highlighted by stunning high jewelry pieces. Furthermore, the designer ensured that the collection exuded his own understated and discreet personality.
The silhouettes, clinging to the body like a second skin with clean draping and airy minimalistic dresses, played with asymmetry, showcasing side-layered necklines and a contrast of short and long sleeves. Matte effects were achieved in nude shades, while satin finishes added touches of scarlet and turquoise to some of the monochromatic dresses in the show's first series.
Brown and black, two of the most prominent colors in the recent days of Paris Haute Couture, adorned fitted dresses, whether long, short, or sheer, featuring brilliant embroideries. The collection also presented enveloping layered ensembles and sets complemented by voluminous jackets, exuding discreet bourgeois charm.
Designed for Fendi's classic clientele, the wardrobe naturally included the Italian brand's successful handbags. Silvia Venturini Fendi, the creative director of accessories, presented various versions of jeweled clutches. The footwear selection consisted of brilliant Hellenic-style sandals and tightly fitted long leather boots in soft shades of dusty pink and cream.
The final looks of the show showcased some of the collection's most exquisite pieces, notably two long fur coats adorned with sparkling elements and delicately worn off the models' shoulders. Intricate beadwork made a captivating appearance as well. These ensembles maintained the light and restrained character of the rest of the collection, culminating in the final look - a loose enveloping top paired with a crystal pink-stone-embroidered midi skirt. It was luxury at its finest, the result of over 1,000 hours of expert craftsmanship by skilled artisans.
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