Intimacy at Giambattista Valli, festive sobriety at Alexandre Vauthier
Giambattista Valli unveiled an extraordinary surprise during his latest rendezvous with Paris Haute Couture on the afternoon of Monday, July 3. For the presentation of his couture collection for the upcoming Fall/Winter 2023 season, the brand decided to depart from its usual successful presentation space at the luxurious Place Vendôme. Instead, they inaugurated a brand new headquarters, welcoming a select group of guests led by the renowned American celebrity Nicky Hilton. The sophisticated space, located at 6 boulevard des Capucines in the 9th arrondissement, just a stone's throw from the Opéra de Paris, transformed one of its several floors into an intimate salon for the runway show.
The brand, which celebrated a decade of Haute Couture shows last year, embarked on a new chapter. Not only did they showcase their new offices, adorned with light pink carpeted rooms decorated with fuchsia flower petals, but they also underwent a subtle design evolution, embracing the concept of "The Modernity of Classics."
While remaining faithful to his recognizable identity, Giambattista Valli introduced more relaxed and fluid volumes, bringing a breath of fresh air away from excessively structured or voluptuous silhouettes. Moreover, the color palette that infused the collection distanced itself from the fluorescent and bright tones that often grace some of the couture house's looks. Instead, it flowed in a lighter manner, featuring classic whites, blacks, and grays, gently brushed with hues of powder pink and understated yellow. The occasional touch of green emerged in two unique looks: a minidress adorned with cascading ruffles and a draped asymmetrical dress.
Prints made only sporadic appearances throughout the collection. Firstly, as black polka dots on a sensual dress with waist cutouts. Secondly, on an asymmetrical taffeta dress with ruffled volumes tied on one shoulder and the hip. Against a pristine white canvas, this dress was imbued with pink floral motifs seamlessly harmonising with the show's set. Valli's signature flowers also adorned silk organza roses on strapless necklines, embroidered magnolias in crepe constructing contemporary tops, and billowing structures reminiscent of blossoming buds.
As customary in shows by the brand owned by Artemis (the investment company of François-Henri Pinault), oversized bows served as the common thread throughout the collection, adorning capes and trains or cinching at the waist over embroidered and lace ensembles in luxurious black velvet. Of course, no Giambattista Valli presentation would be complete without the presence of tulle and it indeed took center stage on the runway. The grand finale featured a mesmerising pink ruffled dress paired with a lace bustier embroidered with sequins, worn by Olympia of Greece, daughter of the Crown Prince and Princess of Greece.
In the midst of this creative renewal, special mention must be made of the flat shoes chosen to grace Giambattista Valli's princesses. Known as "Colombine," these comfortable and modern reinterpretations of Venetian "Friulane" velvet slippers offered a delightful alternative. However, the couturier also included a selection of crystal-embellished sandals for high-heel enthusiasts.
While Giambattista Valli chose to relax volumes and structures in order to elevate his designs, French designer Alexandre Vauthier took a similar approach by toning down the sensuality and customary glamour of his collections, unveiling a sober and timeless fashion show without compromising the distinctive elements that make his festive DNA so recognizable.
Within the confines of a room at the Palais de Tokyo, the floor was adorned with an intense Klein blue carpet matching the guests' chairs. Here, Vauthier showcased a new facet marked by the elegance of a wardrobe composed of "couture basics." These essential pieces ranged from romantic-style white blouses, delicately tied at the neck, to asymmetric black tops exuding a cape-like effect. Flared or billowy tailored black trousers as well as long fitted coats, structured oversized shirts, and voluptuous strapless jumpsuits paraded down the runway, epitomising versatility for the modern Vauthier woman.
Furthermore, one of the highlights of the show held on Tuesday, July 4, was a series of classic velvet tuxedos, featuring pronounced shoulder pads and contrasting lapels, available in both men's and women's versions.
This classic elegance also resonated within the realm of dresses. Departing from Vauthier's usual penchant for mini dresses, the collection embraced draped silhouettes inspired by Hellenic influences, featuring side openings, as well as long and fitted black silhouettes. The color palette initially focused on whites, blacks, and browns, before transitioning into metallic tones such as copper, silver, and gold. These slightly more daring looks featured rigid ruffle effects, metallic feathers, and draped bodysuits.
With an elegant and iconic model casting led by Maggie Maurer and Carmen Kass, the show concluded with resounding applause from the audience, which included notable personalities such as influencer Valentina Ferragni, drag queen Miss Fame, and Italian celebrity Anna Dello Russo.
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