Independent menswear: Gunther, Henrik Vibskov, and Arturo Obegero forge their paths
Asserting their presence in the industry, three menswear brands brought forth their distinct creative visions during the recent Paris Men's Fashion Week. Despite advocating for aesthetics and universes that are entirely different, French brand Gunther, Danish designer Henrik Vibskov, and Spanish talent Arturo Obegero share a common trait: carving an alternative path on the fringes of independence.
Gunther sets its sights abroad
French designer Naomi Gunther took the leap into creating her own premium menswear label in 2019, just a few months before the outbreak of the pandemic. "The brand has been in existence for four years, although it feels like we have only experienced two," smiled the young creative, who honed her skills at Parsons School of Design, in an interview with FashionNetwork.com.
Positioned as a streetwear brand with hints of tailoring savoir-faire, Gunther focuses on short production cycles and proudly embraces the "Made in France" ethos, establishing its creative and production studio in Paris. Additionally, the French capital has been the venue for all their presentations outside the official fashion week calendar. "This format makes me more comfortable and allows for greater creative freedom. Moreover, it enables me to expand my community, host distinctive showcases, and push the boundaries a little further each time," explained Naomi Gunther.
Such was the case with her latest show, held at the Roméo Club on Boulevard Saint-Germain, which recreated a spectacle akin to a 5 p.m. discotheque, with all guests surrounding the runway. Titled "Walk Of Fame," the collection aimed to evoke a Californian ambiance, blending chic elements from Los Angeles, the carefree spirit of Venice Beach, and the shows of Las Vegas. The various references translated into denim and velvet suits with flared cuts, lightweight silk ensembles, and graphic printed looks, all designed to present "relaxed tailoring infused with laid-back street style."
The creative designer aims to solidify the brand's identity as "a menswear label designed by a woman," envisioning a male wardrobe that can also be worn by women in unique ways. This approach has earned Gunther significant commercial traction abroad. The Parisian label has been available at a multi-brand store in Dubai Mall for the past three seasons and participated in a salon in Seoul last February with the support of Mode in France, successfully entering the Korean market through the DFD club. Gunther is currently in discussions with Amazon Fashion and has identified the United States as one of its target markets.
In France, the independent brand sells its collections online through its website and the Printemps department store platform. Furthermore, the brand offers personalized made-to-measure production at its Parisian atelier, with customer demand continuously on the rise.
Henrik Vibskov's 20-year journey in Paris
Within the sunny courtyard of Lycée Henri-IV, a summer boxing ring situated just steps away from the Pantheon, Danish designer Henrik Vibskov celebrated his 20th anniversary in France with a unique concept. Accompanied by a master of ceremonies who doubled as a boxing announcer, introducing participants for each match while providing the musical accompaniment, the silhouettes of the Danish designer (the only Scandinavian representative on the official Paris Fashion Week agenda) paraded amidst orange fluorescent banners, paying homage to the world of sports.
With over 80% of the collection crafted from certified materials, free from toxic dyes or prints, the collection titled "The Unboxing Waltz Tutorial" contemplated the notion of "the box as a vessel that safeguards precious items for a limited time" until their reception or unveiling. For the Central Saint Martins alumnus and member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Masculine de Paris since 2003, this "unboxing of the physical" also symbolizes the metaphorical boxes in which we reside.
Beyond the conceptual framework, the presentation showcased original prints in the form of frayed textures or exotic bird motifs in knitwear, oversized trench coats, loose-fitting yellow and green checkered suits, lightweight cream-toned technical fabrics paired with bermuda shorts, three-quarter summer coats, and short waterproof jackets with gathered cuffs. Additionally, all-black looks featured prominently, including a sheer dress combined with a sporty jacket and a voluminous hat. The words "forever" and "out of deliver" found their place, becoming tonal prints on dresses and knit sweaters.
Moreover, the collection for the upcoming Spring/Summer season featured a collaboration with Scandinavian jewelry designer Vibe Harsløf, renowned for her previous work with brands like Facetasm, Soulland, and Wood Wood. Henrik Vibskov's next fashion show is scheduled for August 9 during Copenhagen Fashion Week.
Arturo Obegero's surfer fantasy
Remaining true to his DNA, Arturo Obegero once again drew inspiration from his homeland to present his latest collection, a "romantic fantasy," at the Palais de Tokyo. Titled "Surfer du soir," the collection revolved around the emergence of surfer culture in the Basque Country at the beginning of the 20th century, envisioning an imaginary wardrobe for distinguished personalities transitioning from the water to the city. This unique concept gave rise to sophisticated silhouettes with romantic brushstrokes, bridging the gap between aquatic sports and dreamlike mermaids.
"My hometown of Tapia de Casariego, located in the Principality of Asturias, keeps this sporting tradition alive. Every summer, I've grown up watching surfers, including my brother Pedro, who runs his own surf school," explained the designer, emphasizing the hypnotic effect of the waves—an effect that he ended up recreated through undulating draped tops, sparkling embroidery resembling sea foam on black transparencies, and asymmetrical voluminous collars.
The collection employed silhouettes that enveloped the body or created abstract forms, offering Obegero's personal take on tailoring and reimagining classic short black dresses as well as form-fitting lace jumpsuits—an increasingly recognizable signature of the Asturian designer's repertoire. Not to be forgotten are his trademark relaxed open-necked shirts, loose-fitting tailored pants, and long gloves as accessories of alluring sophistication.
After graduating from the prestigious Central Saint Martins in 2018, the Spanish creative, now based in Paris, took his first steps within the teams of Maison Lanvin before launching his eponymous brand in March 2020. Since then, Arturo Obegero has showcased all his collections during Paris Men's Fashion Week and has become one of the go-to designers for celebrities like British singer Harry Styles.
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